instagram update

Apr. 25th, 2017 05:05 am
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instagram update


Superfluff is a big kitty btw. Same size as my darling Boo but with an even broader face. He had a furball today. I learnt with Boo to just calm kitties rather than try to move them somwhere convenient. Seems to help build trust.


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instagram update

Apr. 25th, 2017 05:05 am
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instagram update


#minaharker #minamurray #dracula bodice refit. Finally tidy enough and self supporting to put boning in 🙂 By putting a hip gore in I can get a super fit at the waist my next set of stays will have this feature. All will tbh.


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instagram update

Apr. 25th, 2017 05:04 am
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instagram update


#ahsokalives belt gear recut. We won’t talk about it….


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busy weekend

Apr. 24th, 2017 10:52 pm
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Long time no update! Well, two days feels like a long time when I try to post every day. ;)

Saturday was Accepted Students Day at Rutgers, and then work directly after. I didn't learn a whole lot of new info - look, I've already paid my deposit, I don't need to be convinced to come here...oh god there are so many 17-year-olds here, I am ancient - but I did find out that for one of the required "welcome days" for new students in August, the over-25s have their own version, and it involves wine and cheese. Okay, Rutgers, I am convinced.

Sunday was photoshoot day for Jenny-Rose's new hairpieces; over the weekend she did about a million hours of filming for her tutorials, and I was one of her models. I will say I was treated very well by the production. Tons of food. ;) Playing with my hair is a wonderful way to lull me to sleep, so I'm impressed that I didn't nod off while I was getting my hair did! I can't wait til all the edits are done and I can see how incredibly miserable I look in the video! I wasn't really being tortured, I promise...

pouty face with undid hair
Although I was sad when I had to take my awesome hair down. Obviously.

And then today I dug through the18thc bin and tried to decide what to wear Saturday for the dressmaking demo, since the forecast is WAY TOO CLOSE TO 90 for my liking. (WTF, it's April. Bastards.) I wanted to wear something a bit nicer, but I don't want to wear the bird print dress again, and I sort of forgot how crappy the fit is on the white/red cotton sack jacket that's part of the Brunswick. Riiiiight, that would be why I've only worn it twice... Fixable (mostly a problem with the back shoulders, as usual), but I'm not sure I can really be arsed to fix it, and I definitely can't be arsed to fix it in time for the weekend! I'm not all that attached to it so I'm more likely to put it up in the shop for stupid cheap. Anyway! Moral of the story is that I'm probably going to end up in my blue and white stripe linen gown at this point. It's not fancy, but I don't care if I sweat through it. :P

Maurice's system of dress cutting..

Apr. 25th, 2017 02:10 am
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Maurice’s system of dress cutting..


 


Published 1889

Publisher [n.p.]

Pages 28

Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language English

Call number 6267213

Digitizing sponsor The Library of Congress

Book contributor The Library of Congress

Collection library_of_congress; americana

Notes There are no page numbers listed


Full catalog record MARCXML


[Open Library icon]This book has an editable web page on Open Library.


 


This one has a ball taille, and yes, there is a single seam at the front bodice! This is what I had been noticing in garments so it’s nice to have it confirmed.



Tags: historic guides


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Studies in plain needlework and amateur dressmaking ..


 


Published 1887



Publisher Battle Creek, Mich., W. C. Gage & son, printers

Pages 56

Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language English

Call number 9622452

Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation

Book contributor The Library of Congress

Collection library_of_congress; americana

Full catalog record MARCXML


[Open Library icon]This book has an editable web page on Open Library.



Tags: historic guides


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Instructions in dressmaking, basting and fitting



Published 1884



Publisher [New York

Pages 40

Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language English

Call number 8222341

Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation

Book contributor The Library of Congress

Collection library_of_congress; americana

Full catalog record MARCXML


[Open Library icon]This book has an editable web page on Open Library.



Sadly only a single image of line art is included


Tags: historic guides


Things...

Apr. 24th, 2017 05:36 pm
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[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I sometimes think I'm incapable of work without a deadline. So no beading last night.

I've hit that stage in modern clothes where it seems like everything wore out at once, and a few basic things stopped fitting and I've been wearing the same it feels like two things to work for a month. I haven't gone actual shopping besides picking up a thing or two in about seven or eight years (except for ordering 20 something too big extra small dresses last year, thankfully one of the few that fit came in loads of colors), so I suppose I'm overdue. Still, I'm annoyed. I loathe clothes shopping.

One shirt I still like is easily repaired. It's the one I wore to volunteer on election day. Then I didn't wear it for ages and the first time I did, the button on the back of the neck popped. It felt like a metaphor.

But I'm also having things happen like hems just falling out. And pilling. So much pilling. And so annoying that while thankfully my winter pencil skirts still fit, my same style not winter ones don't, as discovered last week. I was never totally thrilled with how they fit because the fabric is so stiff, but last week they just became a giant No.

So, yeah. That's that...

books galore and well..

Apr. 24th, 2017 08:25 pm
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So my books are already winging their way from Central Basement (where all the cool books live.) and I did fond at least one maybe two online references from the Worth bibliography.


Still no sign of The cloud patten nor The ray pattern. There are stars though (yuss!!) but the clouds prove eluxive.


And then I saw an ad on facebook.




How To DIY a Balloon Garland



And this is lovely, I’ve seen them before and like the idea of one like this with pastels and…..oh dear.


I can no longer unsee.

 


No but seriously the cloud patterns used on other garments use tapering scrolling ahapes. So the hunt for the orgiginal design continues!



Tags: cannot unsee, sunburst


i feel very not well at all

Apr. 24th, 2017 02:06 am
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So my rib is not likely to be broken, but I need to rest, which means sitting up is bad for long.


I’m not sure if I feel sick from lying down or from medication (NSAIDs) or because of exactly where I hurt which is sort of right in line with my tummy.


All said I feel fevery and want to just sleep this away.


And it’s a hot day today after several days of cool. That may be part of it. Okay some green tea with lemon and some paracetamol. At least I have the ACC form filled out and it is not the most embarrassing series of events ever.


I couldn’t be bothered sitting down so I leaned over my chair and dislodged a rib on the back of it.


Perfectly normal.


Actually no. It means my eyesight is getting worse- ooh yeah. It is bad. And uneven- my monitor looks like it is strobing if I look at it just right. To the optometrist! Though eye pressure might be part of the mix.

Slow and steady...

Apr. 23rd, 2017 06:06 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I beaded last night! Not a lot, but that dress will get done. I'm just awful with a deadline and putz around with everything else.

Anyway, more tonight!

the source I was looking for

Apr. 23rd, 2017 11:54 pm
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Sorry about weird auto-formating. Apparently facebook uses a lot of div elements!


I did this morning find the original quote in all the books I was reading in regards to Worth having a mix and match pattern catalogue.


The House of Worth.


Language(s): English

Published: Brooklyn : Brooklyn Museum, c1962. —

Subjects: Worth, Charles Frédéric, > 1825-1895.

House of Worth (Firm)

Costume designers > France > Biography.

Fashion > Exhibitions.

Note: “An exhibition held at the Brooklyn Museum from May 8 through June 24, 1962.”

Physical Description: 56 p. : ill.

Locate a Print Version: Find in a library

Viewability:


Full view (original from University of Michigan)


Link directly to the source!


If one approaches those Worth gowns that have survived the years with a tape measure and the eye of a pattern maker, one may glimpse Worth’s flair for engineering. His gowns were made of many standard interchangeable parts. One sleeve may fit several different bodices or each bodice will fit a great variety of sleeves. In turn, each bodice may be joined to a host of skirt shapes.


This sounds reasonable, but the two dresses the book that are compared really don’t show this- the draperies are pointed out.


The most interesting aspect of Mrs. Drew’s gown, however, is its illustration of the many ways Worth repeated a pattern. The diagonal swags of the skirt are the same as the drapery trimmed with pleating on the voile dress pictured on page 29 of this catalogue. They are also identical, even to the fringed button trim, with another dress of green taffeta dated 1876 in The Brooklyn Museum collection. It would seem that plus c’est la meme chose, plus ca change.


 


Not seeing any similarity in regards to the drapery, but perhaps that is due to owning a surfeit of images from the 1870s and 1880s- variations on a theme really was the fashion.


However I have definitely fallen head over heels in love with a particular gown that was made over and over and over again. It’s middle of the 1890s, ball gown. There is one with woven butterflies all over an aqua silk satin, there is one in pink satin with wheat sheafs in beads and sequins up the skirt, there is one in turquoise velvet. They have a slightly asymmetric neckline and are possibly underappreciated because they seem so plain.


In London’s Victoria and Albert Museum is a series of sketches of an 1860 skirt showing the imaginative variations possible with a single basic shape. Made up in a diversity of fabrics and the multitude of trimmings so favored by the mid-century mind, one can envision an almost endless series of dressmaking permutations.


I may not totally see the link above to the idea of mix and match, nor here, but I do see how a skirt would be the primary focus. The 1860s skirts were a huge canvas, and bodices of each decade were built on specific lines. So deciding on a skirt then making the bodice(s) match is very sensible. The opposite of what I tend to do as I tend to work in vertical lines from shoulder to floor.


But the en disposition gowns of the 1890s are most definitely not created this way, they are deigned to match the fabric. The construction of each cannot be swapped.


 


Again, I think the inconsistency in our views of Worth have a lot to do with how long the house was in operation and how the different styles were not simple changes but involved new practices from design through construction through fitting.


 

@auckland_libs more books!

Apr. 23rd, 2017 11:16 pm
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THE AGE OF WORTH, COUTURIER TO THE EMPRESS EUGENIE. IN TRANSIT



 



The history of haute couture, 1850-1950. IN TRANSIT



 



High style : masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art / Jan Glier Reeder.  IN TRANSIT



 



KINGS OF FASHION  IN TRANSIT



I totally blanked that Kings of Fashion was at Auckland Libraries 🙂 I remember reading it at Uni, I’m sure.


But I do now have a very long bibliography to work through so time to have a look though 🙂

can't fit anything right now

Apr. 23rd, 2017 03:32 am
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I can’t fit as in the stage of the costume making process!


But I have all the boning channels in The Mina finally and and at least can start putting in grommets and know about how much I can take in the sides. I just can’t do so on me due to the rib. I may not be able to do anythng like it for a few weeks, maybe months depending on how long it takes to settle. I can’t even work out which rib is at issue as the whole region hurts. Oh no, found it. Just travels along the rib a fair way.


Anyway. But I did manage to transfer the marks to the leather as well. So if I have to leave The Mina on the stand for a while I do have that to work on tonight. Though honestly I hurt just too much. I do see a locum in the morning and I think it might be a little more than a case of asking how long to take to step down from the high dose of steroids and I think we may have to try for an xray. Pretty sure it’s just what I think but it may need looking into if I managed to really pop it out of place.

Hat!

Apr. 22nd, 2017 02:22 pm
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[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I bought a repro 1930s sun hat with a giant bow pattern and am planning on using the chevron stripe for at least part of it. Hopefully the whole thing, depending on scale. It will be nicely painful, if that works out :)

Weather

Apr. 22nd, 2017 01:53 pm
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[personal profile] mala_14
It snowed this morning! Ack! And not like just a few flakes that melted. The ground is well-dusted and it's cold enough that it'll be sticking around for a little while. Apparently it is expected that we will get some more snow too. I suppose I should be glad that it's just snow in April, rather than snow in May, which happens sometimes. I hope my seeds are OK. The peas should be fine, but I'm not so sure about the basil.

ahsoka- step forward step back!

Apr. 22nd, 2017 04:43 am
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I have to redo all the leather parts. It’s okay though I have heavier grade russet and found the line art I did so phew! I just am not totally sure how easy this thickness will be to form but it’s kind of my only option atm!


The montral working though is huge. The shape of the molds mean I can’t in fact get inside the molds to brush or spray so I have to cast each half and then trim, then join. But now that I have a good stash of blades and know the limits of the latex and timing I will be able to at least make a test cast building on the technique.


The tunic and sleeves have taken colour, not quite enough and slightly uneven thanks to the dye settling in the bottle but hey. I should be able to wash properly. Just need to overlock some loose ends.



Tags: ahsoka, ahsoka lives


(no subject)

Apr. 22nd, 2017 04:21 am
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Many more fashion plates in context! Some of these have made their way into cosutme history books.


Of interest to me is how much pink there was in the 1870s! So much. It’s quite… fashion doll pink in plates but I have some paintings where it’s much softer 🙂


 


I have linked to the about pages in each case, click the book cover then the thumbnails icon to be able to see at a glance how much information there really is! Some of these came with pattern suppliments, it’s a pity these have simply been scanned to show that they exist but from experience of scanning my own magazines they are on webarchive) it is a big ask as it is!


 


Le Moniteur de la mode: journal du grand monde ; modes, illustrations, patrons, littératures, beaux-arts, théatres.


1874


Revue de la mode: gazette de la famille, Volume 1


1870


Les Modes parisiennes:


1872&1


Journal de Demoiselles


https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=kBxfAAAAcAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s


1874


https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=HE5iAAAAcAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s


1875


https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=r1gEAAAAYAAJ&dq=Magasin+Des+Demoiselles.&source=gbs_navlinks_s


1878


https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=yVkEAAAAYAAJ&dq=Magasin%20Des%20Demoiselles.&source=gbs_similarbooks


1881


https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=x_wGAAAAYAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s


1883


https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=71gEAAAAYAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s


1884

instagram update

Apr. 22nd, 2017 04:10 am
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instagram update


I’m not obsessed you are! #padmeamidala tatooine gown 🙂 this time I grabbed my pattern for the drapery bits very cool 🙂


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cocktail dress started

Apr. 21st, 2017 10:50 pm
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[personal profile] mandie_rw
I did get the mockup for my new 50s cocktail dress all fitted, woo and hoo. (As I mentioned, it's to wear to the opera next weekend. I know, opera dress isn't technically a cocktail dress, but as we usually go to matinees I'd feel like a total asshole in an opera gown! People in Philly don't tend to "dress" for the opera, so cocktail dress is even too fancy. But I have some standards, haha.)

I'm using a piece of red/green/taupe striped taffeta that's been in the stash for a million years; I think it was de-stash from Maggie? Maybe? I'd mentally earmarked it for a 1780s/early 90s jacket and petti, but since I'll probably never make that, it didn't feel too blasphemous to use it for something 20thc instead. ;)

It's going to be a very fun exercise in Making It Work - there was a piece just under 2 yards and a piece about 1.5 yards, and I wanted a full circle skirt. Yes, it can be done, by piecing in a line of stripes onto the width of the bigger piece and just cutting out a giant circle from it! Good thing this dress doesn't require sleeves...

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