Help!

[isabelladangelo]

I have some absolutely lovely cream colored silk that is just the right weight for a chemise. It's not sheer but it looks like it's about two steps removed from being organza. It would look lovely under some 16th century gowns except....I can't find where there any mentions of silk chemises! I've seen partlets but not smocks!

Does anyone recall anything about silk chemises or smocks in the 16th century? I've looked in Janet Arnold's array of books and all it says is linen with silk embroidery -no actual silk smocks/chemises. Even if you don't know, any suggestions on where to ask? I'm looking for "this extant garment" or "right in this inventory" type documentation not just the "because s/he said so!"

Comments

[sstormwatch.livejournal.com]

There is in Henry VIII's records, a mention of a red silk shirt for his coronation, which is worn over a simple linen shirt. Most likely the linen is the washable undershirt, with the red silk shirt going with the rest of his red coronation outfit.

That's all I've got. I otherwise prefer linen over silk in general for shirts/smocks, since in my area, even really thin silk is too hot to wear that close to the skin, even if silk is so much softer. It does breathe, but feels as muggy as cotton does, compared to linen.

[isabelladangelo.livejournal.com]

True about the linen/cotton/silk. I'm just not sure what else to use this for since it's too heavy for a veil and too thin for an actual gown. Maybe a slip for something much later but it seems a shame to use five yards of silk for something that will be completely covered.

[msmcknittington.livejournal.com]

Could you use it for a lining in hanging sleeves or some other sort of open sleeve? Hanging sleeves eat fabric like crazy.

[isabelladangelo.livejournal.com]

hmmm...maybe. I only have one dress on the radar right now that has hanging sleeves on it but it is a possibility. Thanks!

[sstormwatch.livejournal.com]

I know what you mean. I have some that I am pondering what to do with it. Maybe you could line a pretty jacket or gown with it, where it can show a little?

[isabelladangelo.livejournal.com]

Yeah, msmcknittington mentioned hanging sleeves which would work. It's just a very pretty, old, fabric and I hate *not* to use it somewhere where it will show off well. That's sort of why I was thinking "smock" because they you could at least see the sleeves and the neckline.

...Maybe I can switch up what I was going to use the red velveteen for and make a surcote with hanging sleeves to show the silk off...

[operafantomet.livejournal.com]

The only reference I remember re: silk chemises is just the mention of it being one possible material in a book about Renaissance clothing. I didn't look up the reference for it, so it might be one of those "because she said so" statements. It was either in

Frick, Carole Collier (2002) "Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes and Fine Clothing", John Hopkins University Press (page 304)

or

Herald, Jacqueline (1981) "Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500", Bell & Hyman, London (page 212)


Not only would it endure hard wear, as it has 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton, but it can also take up to 20% moisture without feeling damp. This makes it the ideal fabric to wear next to the skin. But other fibres was also used: hemp, wool, and sometimes even cotton or silk (Herald 1981: 212, Frick 2002: 304).
http://aneafiles.webs.com/camicia.html

[isabelladangelo.livejournal.com]

Thank you! No, by "because she said so" was more along the lines of some documentation I once say. It was a long list of the names of two different Laurels for each citation.... no books, no extant pieces, just names of Laurels.

As long as I can point to a book or something other than another person, I'm fine with that. :-)

Now, that's interesting. maybe there's a chance yet to still use it as a chemise. :-)