Harper's Ferry Dress Planning

[isabelladangelo]

As a back up, I have a black wool skirt and I have a black wool extant jacket that is very wearable. I just need to make a basic blouse and I'd be fine for the late 1850's into the Civil War era.

However, I have zero desire to go in mourning to a cider demonstration. I want to be colorful, darn it! I found that fabric dot com had some silk plaids that look oh so tempting but I'd like to stick to an under $50 budget -if not much lower- for this dress. I'm thinking maybe this blue wool blend on ebay? That with some pink and/or black trims would look neat.

The pattern I'm considering is Simplicity 4510. I'll leave off all six ruffles (I might add one ore two) and probably change up the trim placement a bit but I'm more concerned about the construction. It *looks* okay but does anyone know if it is correct for the late 1850's/early 1860's? Mid Victorian is not my era. What research I have done, this looks like about an 1858/1859 dress which is what I'm going for. (The demo is for 1860. The rest of the patterns I have look too fashion forward, like 1863...)

Back to fabric: I'm also considering a cotton flannel due to it being inexpensive. Would that have been used in a day gown/visiting dress? Or would a cotton reproduction be more appropriate? Or should I splurge and go with the pretty silk plaid? Or should I use the green silk I still have and just deal with it being another green dress? Or should I go further through my stash and see what else I can find?

I know, a lot of questions. Believe it or not, I have a TON more. I'm just using the corset I just finished remaking and I can whip up the chemise for this in about 25 minutes (I actually have an extant one that I can use as a basis)

Also, if anyone knows of any better patterns from the big 3, please let me know. Based on my search last night, I might already have it....

Comments

[corsetrasewing.livejournal.com]

do not use cotton flannel!
I *think* cotton prints were more domestic, if you were going out in public, silk or wool would likely be a better choice.

Also this particular dress style is not really suitable for a cotton print, the sleeves are rather large and they were most commonly done in silks or wools, though you do see sheer cottons with those sleeves too.

[isabelladangelo.livejournal.com]

I am bidding on some silk right now that might work. Cotton is just easier to clean. :-)

[msmcknittington.livejournal.com]

No cotton flannel! Step away from it. Wool flannel is an entirely different creature than cotton flannel, and it most likely would have been used for undergarments.

The main difference between 1850s and early 1860s fashions is that the 1850s is a floofy, flouncy, fussy explosion, and the 1860s is more about being controlled and smooth and neat.

Cotton prints, unless they're on a sheer fabric, are going to be more workaday than a silk or wool. Sheers are appropriate for a "better" dress, but they're a summer fabric. It might still be pretty warm where you live, though! Cotton prints might be appropriate for something like pressing cider, since that's going to be a fairly messy activity and you wouldn't want to get your silk dress dirty.

Your black jacket and black skirt would actually work without being mourning! Black was a fashion color ca. 1860. You just need to accessorize it with bright colors. If you're wearing a red silk Swiss waist or belt and a colorful bonnet, while having tons of fun, then no one is going to think you're in mourning. Think bright colors for accents: red, electric blue, bright green, fuchsia, those new synthetic colors that were so popular. Just don't wear them all at once! Black will go with pretty much anything, but colors were matched up across the color wheel. There was this whole theory of complementary colors and what ones reflected the most flattering color upon one's skin. I have an article from the late 1850s somewhere on my computer explaining it that I can post if you like. You'll want a belt or waist (if you need more info on belts, just ask!), maybe a bow at your throat, and if your jacket has open sleeves, you can trim the undersleeves with colored ribbon. Also a bonnet.

What I remember best from the Simplicity patterns is that the pattern layout is incredibly wasteful and it calls for a ludicrous amount of fabric in the skirt. You want 4 widths of 45" fabric and 3 of 60" fabric, for a finished skirt width of somewhere between 150 and 180 inches. The pattern you have picked out has you cut 4 skirt panels of 43" wide and one of 27", with like 10 inches of hem turned up. That's ridiculous. If you face the hem with cotton or wool, then you save nearly 2 yards of fabric, and that 27" panel isn't necessary. And then all those flounces on the skirt are cut on the bias, which eats fabric.

Also, there's a ton of ease drafted into the bodice pattern, so you'll have to toile. Don't even think about not doing a toile! You might end up cutting the bodice a couple sizes down.

[isabelladangelo.livejournal.com]

Cotton prints might be appropriate for something like pressing cider, since that's going to be a fairly messy activity and you wouldn't want to get your silk dress dirty.


This! This is my entire problem. You see, I'm use to happily hiking through the woods in Harper's Ferry wearing a fleece sweatshirt and jeans. I see silk but I also think "ummm...leaves? Mud? How do I hop over a creek in that and not spend the rest of the night playing with Oxyclean and trying to wash the thing in the bathtub?" Hence my fabric confusion.

I've learned about Simplicity patterns. I'm just going to cut out the bodice and not worry about the skirt so much. I might just pleat up three or four yards of fabric and not bother with a pattern at all or I might just do the whole circle skirt thing. I will do a mock up, don't worry. Thank you for the info on the flounces. I might just make up my own instead. Cut three strips (instead of six) of about 8" by 6 yards and hem 'em before attaching them to the bottom of the skirt. Assuming I don't go crazy and just do the triangular line trim placement that I keep seeing rather than ruffles at all.

My jacket is sort of like a riding jacket in style. The only difference is the sleeves and mine doesn't have a collar (http://www.abrahamslady.com/items/412PI.jpg).

What I am considering -as an alternative- is going with this lovely gathered blouse (http://civil-war-clothing.blogspot.com/2011/07/civil-war-era-fashion-plate-june-1861.html) I've seen in a couple of late 1850's, early 1860's fashion plates. The problem is that I'm terrified it will look messy. Me and gathers are not the best of friends unless it's just around the waistband. However, the plus side is that skirts are easy to make and, if the blouse comes out correctly, then I can do the whole colorful belt and bonnet combo with the skirt.

Thank you so much for your help! I know I'm probably sounding crazy because I can't make up my mind. :-D I just want to narrow down my choices first and then figure out what the heck I'm doing.

[corsetrasewing.livejournal.com]

if you go with that blouse, your skirt will still need to be wool or silk. that is not a style done out of cotton calico.
Wool is probably the better bet.

[msmcknittington.livejournal.com]

This! This is my entire problem. You see, I'm use to happily hiking through the woods in Harper's Ferry wearing a fleece sweatshirt and jeans. I see silk but I also think "ummm...leaves? Mud? How do I hop over a creek in that and not spend the rest of the night playing with Oxyclean and trying to wash the thing in the bathtub?" Hence my fabric confusion.

I'd actually go for a repro print or a wool plaid, then, over silk. If you go for a repro cotton print, then I'd use a workdress pattern like Simplicity 4551. I think it's out of print now. FFC did have some nice wool/cotton plaid challis last year that might still be in stock, and wool tricotine is a good choice. Fabric Mart just put up a bunch of wool fabrics, too. You want a lightweight wool, nothing near coating. Mud and leaves should be able to be brushed off once dry, unless the mud is clay. Clay stains!

With that style jacket, I think it was more common to wear it as outerwear, over a bodice. You'll want a layer underneath of some sort. A shirt might work, but you'll want to be sure it looks halfway accurate and is accessorized right.

[wereleopard.livejournal.com]

This. All of this. Also: I know you said Big 3, but I was super happy with the cut and fit of the Truly Victorian pattern I used for my 1870s day bodices. They fit almost perfectly on the first try (I only fixed finicky things on the toile, it would have been fine without one).

[isabelladangelo.livejournal.com]

I'm just worried about ordering a pattern and it getting here in time to have a complete and trimmed dress by the start of November. I will look into those for the future though. I do need some new gowns for the Steampunk world's fair next may. :-)

[wereleopard.livejournal.com]

If you get them from Reconstructing History instead of TV directly, I usually have them within a few days... They're pretty quick. If you order directly from TV, yeah, it takes a week and some change.